TheCotswoldsCode

A place in the world

Bourton-on-the-Water

Bourton-on-the-Water is the busiest of the show villages, the Venice of the Cotswolds in the brochures, with the shallow River Windrush running across the green under a line of low stone bridges. Here is what is worth doing in Bourton, when to come before the green fills, and the quieter country it keeps uphill from the water.

At a glance

Where
Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire, in the Windrush valley. Nearest town and station Moreton-in-Marsh, about eight miles north.
Best time to visit
Before about ten in the morning, or out of season. The green fills with families through the middle of a summer day and empties again at dusk.
How long to spend
Half a day for the village and its attractions. A full day if you walk on to the Slaughters.
Parking
Two pay-and-display car parks, on Station Road and Rissington Road, both a short walk from the green; both fill on busy summer days, so come early.
Getting there
Nearest station Moreton-in-Marsh, about eight miles off, direct from London Paddington in around ninety minutes, with a local bus on to Bourton. By car, on the A429 Fosse Way.
Dog friendly
Yes, and notably so. Dogs paddle in the shallow Windrush along with everyone else, and several of the attractions take them on a lead.
Family friendly
Yes, more than anywhere else in the Cotswolds. The model village, Birdland, the motoring museum and the maze are all here.

Things to do in Bourton-on-the-Water

The Model Village

A replica of Bourton built at a ninth of its size, in the same Cotswold stone, in the garden of the Old New Inn. It opened in 1937 and is the only model village in the country listed as a building in its own right. It preserves the place as it stood in the 1930s, down to a tiny model of the model itself.

The bridges over the River Windrush

Five low arched stone bridges cross the shallow Windrush as it runs the length of the green, the oldest dating from 1654. They are the reason for the Venice of the Cotswolds name and the most photographed thing in the village. The water is shallow enough to paddle in, and on a warm day everyone does.

Birdland Park & Gardens

A bird park on the edge of the village, opened in 1957 on a former plantation by the river, with flamingos, pelicans and a breeding group of king penguins said to be the only one in England. The penguin feed is the thing the children come back for.

Cotswold Motoring & Toy Museum

Seven galleries of vintage cars, motorcycles and caravans in an old riverside mill, and home to Brum, the small open-topped car from the children's television series, which was filmed here.

The Dragonfly Maze

A yew maze with a puzzle to solve as you go, the work of the artist Kit Williams, who made the golden hare buried for his book Masquerade. The reward at the centre is a golden dragonfly.

Greystones Farm Nature Reserve

The quiet alternative on the edge of the village, run by the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust: meadow trails, a replica Iron Age roundhouse and a café, and free to walk. It is where to go when the green is full.

Visiting Bourton-on-the-Water: parking, getting there, when to go

Bourton sits in the Windrush valley off the A429, the Roman Fosse Way, between Stow and Cirencester. The village core is small and walkable in under an hour; the reason to plan is the crowd and the attractions, not the distance.

Parking is in two pay-and-display car parks, on Station Road and on Rissington Road, both a few minutes' walk from the green and both liable to fill on a fine summer weekend. Come before ten and the problem is largely solved. This is a working village, so leave the lanes clear.

Without a car, the nearest station is Moreton-in-Marsh, about eight miles off, with direct trains from London Paddington in around ninety minutes; a local bus runs on from the station to Bourton in fifteen minutes or so. Check the times before you set out, as the bus is not frequent.

The honest advice is to come early or come in the shoulder months. Bourton before the green fills is a genuinely lovely village on a clear river. Bourton at noon in August is a crowd.

Where to eat, drink & stay

The Mousetrap Inn, out on the Lansdown edge of the village, is the pub the locals use: a small freehouse with changing local ales and more regulars than visitors, away from the riverside crush.

The Kingsbridge sits right on the water in the middle of things, which makes it the busy one in summer and a good spot for a pint by the river if the crowd does not put you off.

The Old New Inn, a coaching inn from 1712, keeps the model village in its garden and does pub food and the full cream-tea business of scones and cake.

Bourton-on-the-Water questions, answered

What is Bourton-on-the-Water famous for?
The River Windrush running across the green under five low stone bridges, which earned it the name the Venice of the Cotswolds, and its cluster of family attractions: the model village, Birdland, the motoring museum and the maze.
Is Bourton-on-the-Water free to visit?
The village itself is free, and walking the green, the bridges and the riverside costs nothing. The model village, Birdland, the motoring museum and the maze each charge admission, while the Greystones Farm reserve and the river are free.
Can you paddle in the river at Bourton?
Yes. The Windrush is shallow and clear as it crosses the green, and paddling in it, dogs included, is part of the day out, especially in summer.
Is Bourton-on-the-Water worth visiting?
Yes, if you time it. Early in the day or out of season it is one of the prettiest village centres in the Cotswolds. At peak times it is very crowded, so the question is when you come rather than whether.

There are vineyards on these slopes now, oast houses and barns made into homes, lamps coming on among the vines as the light goes. The hills keep their houses well back from the road.

The water and the bridges are what the day comes for, and they are right to come. But the Cotswolds that matters is uphill from the green, behind the trees, where the evening is darker and the doors are already shut.

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